1. BOMKAI HANDLOOM
Where it’s from: Subarnapur, Orissa
What you need to know: The starring feature of this gorgeous weave is the thread-work ornament borders that they use to make saris. The thread count is low, but the material is very popular because of the patterns created on it and the bright colors that it is dyed in. Often, patterns are woven in the material in contrasting colors, making the material stand out more than usual. Still wondering, whether the weave is for you?
2. MANGALAGIRI COTTON
Where it’s from: Guntur, Andhra Pradesh
What you need to know: It’s popularly used to create saris and is mostly characterized by tiny checks, sometimes stripes that you can barely see with your naked eye. The weave is extremely fine and usually finished off in really bright colors. The handlooms usually have a thread-count of 80-80 or 40-60, depending on how hard or soft the woven fabric is. The cloth usually falls under a crisp category, making the clothing items pretty stiff but very durable.
3. TUSSAR SILK
Where it’s from: Jharkhand
What you need to know: Have you heard of sericulture? It’s basically the production of fabric from the protein extracted out of the larvae of silkworms. This is how this gorgeous Indian weave is made, and the weaving produces a fabric in a natural gold color. This can be dyed of course, but it’s pretty gorgeous on its own as well, even with the heavy textures. The fabric can only be dry cleaned, and it’s both delicate as well as stiff, and this makes it fall beautifully when it’s used in an ethnic outfit. The rich, coarse texture may make it look heavy but it is light on your skin, which makes it perfect for the weather in India. In places like West Bengal, this handloom is used for Kantha embroidery. If you’re looking for something that’s similar to Tussar but much more comfortable and very light, you can pick Kosar (from Champa in Chhattisgarh). This is produced by a worm that is similar to the silk worm, so it’s not as exclusive. It’s soft, but sturdy so you know that clothes in this material will last you longer. It’s an all natural material, and even if you don’t want to use the original dull gold shade (very similar to Tussar) you can pick from the dyed options – and still stay natural as shades are usually made with pollen and flower by-products.
4. PAITHANI BROCADE
Where it’s from: Aurangabad, Maharashtra
What you need to know: The materials of this weave, whose name is based on the town that the art comes from (Paithan), are usually available as finished products in a variety of rainbow colors, making them one of the most fun weaves out there. However, since they’re made from extremely fine silk, they’re also one of the most luxurious and coveted types. The process to make this weave is a type of silk weaving, but what makes it such a highly sought after thing is the fact that it’s woven in with zari, which makes it look so shiny. Though there are cheaper varieties available, but it’s usually a pretty expensive piece to buy, often woven with colors going lengthwise and widthwise for a little variation causing a rainbow effect. The material takes longer than most (months on end) to be woven.
5. MAHESHWARI HANDLOOM
Where it’s from: Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh
What you need to know: This is as royal as you’re going to get with an ethnic weave. The popular weave is made with silk or cotton threads that are usually combined together to make thicker threads, then woven into a really soft, gorgeous looking handloom piece. The end result is a dense weave, and while most other handlooms pop with bright colors, you will find these in softer, though bold shades of green or pink. Sometimes, checks and patterns are woven in with the material, making them even more distinctive as materials. This is also very popularly used to make salwar suits, apart from the saris that most ethnic weaves are best suited to.
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